I finally, caved and said --- it is good enough! Time to paint. I think Peter and James were ready way before I was. Even though we plan to dry sail the boat, we opted to paint the bottom with the Interlux Interprotect 2002e White barrier paint. This paint is actually sandable, and would allow us to get the bottom of the boat extremely smooth, and at the same time provide a barrier coat for when we do leave it in the water for a week here and there. Here is what she looks like after a couple of coats of paint.
This is went it really started to get exciting. All of that brown QuickFair splotchy brown on the bottom is completely covered. We ended up rolling on 2 full gallons, in roughly four coats. I wanted it to go on thick, so I could sand it down. We thinned it out with 10% Interlux 2333N Reducing agent to minimize the orange peel. It felt great to get it on the boat. Feels like we are getting soooooo close! The ultimate plan is to sand this smooth, and then put a final coat of PErformance Epoxy on the bottom to cover the Interprotect 2002e. Just a quick note, as you can see from the picture, the "white" Interlux Interprotect is really slightly gray.
Saturday, September 6, 2014
Tired of Fairing
Believe it or not, it took a lot of fairing to get the hull straight and smooth. I kept thinking that every time I put more QuickFair on, it would be the last time. I would let it harden, and the head up to the lake to sand it smooth, just to discover a few more places that needed to be filled. I also had one mix of QuickFair not get mixed quite right, and as a result it never set up properly (never hardened). This was a real bummer, as it meant I had to first sand off all of this "bad" epoxy, and then mix up a new batch and apply it.
In the end, the boat looked pretty lousy, with the splotchy tan bottom, but it really felt pretty good and smooth. It just looked bad. So I couldn't wait to get some paint on it. In the lower picture, you can see all the blisters that were hand ground out (with a dremel tool), and then refilled (with QuickFair), and then sanded smooth. This is sanded with about 80 grit sandpaper. It was very important to use longboard sanding techniques to ensure that the hull remained straight and not rippled. So most of the sanding was done by hand with a long board. It was getting close though! Almost ready for painting!
In the end, the boat looked pretty lousy, with the splotchy tan bottom, but it really felt pretty good and smooth. It just looked bad. So I couldn't wait to get some paint on it. In the lower picture, you can see all the blisters that were hand ground out (with a dremel tool), and then refilled (with QuickFair), and then sanded smooth. This is sanded with about 80 grit sandpaper. It was very important to use longboard sanding techniques to ensure that the hull remained straight and not rippled. So most of the sanding was done by hand with a long board. It was getting close though! Almost ready for painting!
Filling the Thru-Hull
This boat still had the sink drain that exited just above the waterline on the starboard side. While I was originally not going to fool with it, James convinced me that it would not be an overly involved project to fill it. Since we were in the process of fairing out the hull anyway, I said why not. Here is what it looked like before hand.
The sink holding tank (fresh water for the sink) had already been removed. This is important, as it blocks access to this part of the hull under the sink. James took an angle grinder, and cut off the thru-hull stub that the drain pipe was connected to, and ground down the inside of the hull. It is important to grind both sides here to ensure that the plug made of epoxy filler won't pop either in or out. After grinding, we taped the outside the hull in preparation for filling from the inside. Since this part of the hull is close to vertical, we taped half a dixie cup the the top open in the up direction, to contain the epoxy resin mix and hold it in place. In this case we used West system fiber filler with SystemThree epoxy to mix up a pretty gooey consistency. It was not quite peanut butter consistency, but much thicker than syrup. You want it to run into all the voids, but not run too much so it all runs out.
After that set up, James ground out the excess (the half shape of the dixie cup) on the inside, and we pealed back the tape on the outside. The epoxy had shrunk in slightly on the outside, which was just perfect for adding some QuickFair fairing compound and getting it perfectly smooth. Here is what it looks like after. Once this is painted, you'll never know if was there. Took a couple of hours to do, but in retrospect, it was well worth it. Thanks James!
The sink holding tank (fresh water for the sink) had already been removed. This is important, as it blocks access to this part of the hull under the sink. James took an angle grinder, and cut off the thru-hull stub that the drain pipe was connected to, and ground down the inside of the hull. It is important to grind both sides here to ensure that the plug made of epoxy filler won't pop either in or out. After grinding, we taped the outside the hull in preparation for filling from the inside. Since this part of the hull is close to vertical, we taped half a dixie cup the the top open in the up direction, to contain the epoxy resin mix and hold it in place. In this case we used West system fiber filler with SystemThree epoxy to mix up a pretty gooey consistency. It was not quite peanut butter consistency, but much thicker than syrup. You want it to run into all the voids, but not run too much so it all runs out.
After that set up, James ground out the excess (the half shape of the dixie cup) on the inside, and we pealed back the tape on the outside. The epoxy had shrunk in slightly on the outside, which was just perfect for adding some QuickFair fairing compound and getting it perfectly smooth. Here is what it looks like after. Once this is painted, you'll never know if was there. Took a couple of hours to do, but in retrospect, it was well worth it. Thanks James!
Fairing the Keel
Once the boat was back on the trailer, it was time to start fairing the hull to get it as smooth as possible. It started with James helping us fair the keel, which was really in pretty bad shape. We used an angle grinder with a wire brush to take off all the epoxy and paint that was loose. Then we ground down all edges. After that, James used the QuickFair to build it back up and shaped the keel to optimal/class legal shape using the proper keel templates. Needless to say, it really turned out well - and I am sure it will be extremely fast. He also made sure that the keel was optimally located (I think as far aft as possible). You can get a sense for how bad it was from the pictures below, and how much better it looks now.
The photo above is from before ....
Below is the photo of the keep after .... Much improved! He also worked on the rudder and got it faired as well.
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